Ignition repair & replacement

Ignition trouble usually shows up in one of three ways: the key won't go in or won't turn, the key turns but the engine won't start, or the key gets stuck in the cylinder. Each one points to a different fix.

Common ignition problems we see

Key won't turn

Often a worn cylinder — the wafers inside no longer line up cleanly. Sometimes it's the steering-wheel lock binding (try wiggling the wheel side to side while turning the key). If wiggling doesn't help, the cylinder usually needs to be rebuilt or replaced.

Key turns but engine won't start

This is usually a security issue, not a mechanical one. The car's immobilizer isn't recognizing the chip in the key. Could be a dying transponder, a fob that's lost its sync, or a cylinder issue letting the key turn slightly without engaging the ignition switch.

Key stuck in the ignition

Can mean the cylinder is failing internally, or that the gear selector isn't fully in Park, or that a worn key has lodged itself. Don't yank — that snaps keys. Call before forcing it.

Worn-out key + worn-out cylinder

Years of use grinds tiny amounts off both the key and the cylinder wafers. By the time it's hard to start, both sides usually need refreshing — a new cylinder rekeyed to a fresh-cut key.

Repair vs replacement

We try to repair first. Many ignitions can be rebuilt with new wafers and springs, then rekeyed to your existing key. Full replacement is for cases where the cylinder is too far gone, where it's electrically failed, or where security has been compromised. We'll show you the difference and the price before deciding.

What you'll need

• Photo ID matching ownership.
• Registration or title.
• All keys you have, working or not.
• Year, make, and model.